Castellammare del Golfo

Castellammare del Golfo — the small Sicilian fishing town halfway between Palermo and Trapani, with a 10th-century Arab-Norman castle, a working fishing harbour, the Tonnara di Scopello and the Zingaro nature reserve on its doorstep, and the historical distinction of having exported half of the Prohibition-era American Mafia.

Saint Francis across Umbria

The places Francis of Assisi actually lived, walked, and died — from the Porziuncola and San Damiano to La Verna, Greccio, and the small edicola at Piandarca where he preached to the birds. A secular travellers guide to the geography of his life, with the 2026 centenary calendar.

Nocera Umbra

Nocera Umbra is the Umbrian hill town behind the mineral water. Beyond the bottling plant: a Lombard necropolis, a cathedral with the incorrupt body of Saint Raynald, a Franciscan pilgrim geography, and a painstaking restoration after the 1997 earthquake.

Mantova

Mantova is a small city of 50,000 people on a bend of the Mincio river, surrounded on three sides by three artificial lakes. From any approach, the skyline — a cluster of red brick towers, pale stone duomos, the 500-room…

Maratea

Maratea is the only town on Basilicata’s Tyrrhenian coast. The regional coastline there is thirty kilometres long — squeezed between Campania in the north and Calabria in the south — and the town of Maratea occupies almost all of it.…

Bevagna

Bevagna is a walled town of five thousand people twenty kilometres south of Assisi, on the flat of the Valle Umbra. It does not appear in most international guidebooks. It has never had a railway station. It has one traffic…

Orvieto

Orvieto sits on top of a cliff. The cliff is a single block of volcanic tufa, 300 metres across, rising 150 metres above the surrounding countryside with nearly vertical sides. The Etruscans built a city on the flat top in…

Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre is fifteen kilometres of cliff between two small seaside towns — Levanto in the west and Portovenere in the east — broken by five fishing villages that the sea has been trying to swallow for 800 years.…

Genoa

Genoa has been Italy’s working port for two and a half thousand years. It is also — less famously but just as truly — the city with the largest medieval centre in Europe, forty-two UNESCO-listed Renaissance palaces on a single…

Ancona

Ancona is the city that every ferry passenger sees from the car deck and almost nobody gets off the ship to visit. It has a Roman triumphal arch on the water, a Romanesque cathedral on a headland, and the best…